Today a friend of mine e-mailed me a CNN article titled, "Amazing airline meals, if you splurge ...", about First-Class dining across the Pacific.  Considering myself a "Road Warrior", I didn't find anything spectacular or impressive for that matter, about the article.  Actually, the only thing I thought was if CNN was going to take a picture of me sitting in a first-class seat, I wouldn't be wearing what he was wearing - a t-shirt with the neck stretched out.  Cathy gives pjs in FC, at least go put that on...

What I found absolutely startling was the comments from other readers at the end of the article, note the number after  "LIKE" meaning the number of other readers agreeing with the comment:

JKMM9

Life is full of ironies...people with dirty drinking water in Pakistan and people paying $25,000 to eat gourmet in the air. On the same webpage...in the same world. Heaven help us.

1 day ago | Like (23) | Report abuse

retrox

CNN this is a disgrace. Cathay Pacific buys ads on your website formonths... and then you feature them in this advertorial that really has no news value. I know you have to make money, but at least try to beless obvious.

1 day ago | Like (14) | Report abuse

xorpa

Going against the spirit of American capitalism and individualism, I still get nauseated reading about these people who spend >$10,000 ona flight- AND- flaunting it on CNN while many in the rest of the country are worrying if they may end up on the streets in the coming days. Something's not ri... more

Going against the spirit of American capitalism and individualism, Istill get nauseated reading about these people who spend >$10,000 ona flight- AND- flaunting it on CNN while many in the rest of thecountry are worrying if they may end up on the streets in the comingdays. Something's not right. less

1 day ago | Like (18) | Report abuse

Linda001001

What a waste of money. I would rather donate it to children in the U.S.that don't have food then worry about what I eat on a plane flight.

2 days ago | Like (21) | Report abuse

And because it was a Chinese airline, there were a few anti-Chinese sentiments like this:

pjdxxxwa9827Makes me wonder if this is one of the insidiuos ways Chiina will takeover the world by suggesting that they are your friend and want toplease you. China is buying up property worldwide. They own an alarming part of the US now, through buying real estate and readily loaning the US money, esp. wh... more

Some even commented on the Hilton family and even Paris Hilton...what?!?

Of course, there were a few others telling the rest to chill.  But I was surprised that there was such a backlash.  When the economy started to go down starting in 2008, Louis Vuitton had to cut it's workforce at the factory in France that made its handbags.    One has to keep in mind that the reason why we are in the situation we are in is because we have moved a large chunk our manufacturing outside of the US and we have become a SERVICE economy.  Hello?  SERVICE?  What this means is that people have to SPEND money.  And one spending $300 on a Chicago-Los Angeles ticket is the same thing as spending a $12,000 ticket from Chicago-Beijing.

For some, the $300 might seem like a big splurge.  I don't know what to say about those who responded so negatively.  Everything trickles down and across far and wide.  Because of someone willing to spend money for a ticket, regardless of its price, it goes to pay for Cathy's employees at Los Angeles Airport, the baggage handlers, LAX's landing and parking fees, etc.  It is from those paychecks each individual worker then use their money to donate to the causes of their choice.  How about the type of aircraft they were flying in - a Boeing 747-400?  Where did that come from?  Boeing's factory in Everett, Washington.  Cathy is able to pay their debt payments (possibly to a US company like GE Capital) and their shareholders all over the world from those ticket prices.  It isn't being siphoned off to some black hole in China.

        

        

Absolute Inspiration

               


There are certain times in life one comes across a truly talented individual.  There's talent and then there's true talent, one that rises above the rest.  Imagine, in this day an age, where it is all about "me" - we have blogs, twitter, facebook, MySpace, and other mediums where we can tell people at any given time where we are, what we are doing, and our talents.  With all that noise coming from the people of the world (I included), how the heck is anyone able to set themselves apart - when we are all collectively apart?

America's Got Talent is ingenious.  It's not like American Idol where there are parameters set (rules like age and you have to sing).  It's truly about talent beyond just singing.  The first winner was an 11 year old, Bianca Ryan , a signer and guitarist.  The second was, ventriloquist/impressionist Terry Fator.  Just incredible.


Then in Season 5 , one particular act stood out.  John Quale , which you can read more about below, appears as the character of Prince Poppycock .  Now, Prince Poppycock, as described on his MySpace, is "part randy dandy , part rock star, part drunken courtesan" - and he is every bit of each.  When I first saw him, it was at first, sensory overload, your eyes wanted to see more and register what was going on.  It as if he walked out of a time machine from Louis XIV 's court.  Just fabulous.

And every single time I see him perform, I am overcome with emotion that someone can be inspired to come up with such beauty.  And then he opens his mouth.  When you read about him and his story, it makes you wonder about life, the Universe and the gods of fate.  He just didn't fall from a spaceship onto the AGT stage - he has been working at this for a very long time.

Thank you, John Quale and Prince Poppycock, for bringing such beauty into the world with your talents.  The world is yours, your boundaries are endless.

About John Quale (taken from his MySpace page):

John Quale has been singing from the time he could speak. At age 11, he had his first professional gig at the Kennedy Center with the Washington Opera's children choir. He continued his studies at the highly competitive Interlochen Arts Camp, and performed and toured with musicals and choirs throughout high school and college.

In his teenage years John developed a love for writing music. Enamoured with David Bowie , Depeche Mode, Opera, Madrigals, Gregorian Chant, The Smiths and Gilbert and Sulivan he started to write and record his own music. During college he become the lead singer and songwriter for the Chicago synth-pop band Endora. After moving to Los Angeles he wrote released and performed his solo debut album. "Worldview ", now available on iTunes.

In Los Angeles, John Played the role of Jesus to great critical acclaim in the smash musical "The Beastly Bombing " which won the LA Weekly Theater Award for Best Musical, and which enjoyed two short runs Off Broadway in NYC.

In 2006 Prince Poppycock was born. At the time John was studying Opera, had just completed learning the Figaro aria, 'Largo al Factotum'. When a friend asked John to perform the aria at her nightclub there was only one stipulation: he must wear a wig. John decided to perform as a powdered-wigged baroque dandy , and highlight how the song was about being a fabulous hairdresser (it really is!). Prince Poppycock was born!

Prince Poppycock was an instant success, appearing at prime Los Angeles venues like the Redcat , where he opened for revered performance artist Ann Magnuson , and at the Orpheum where he opened for the Dresden Dolls.

Popppycock has graced stages across the country including Las Vegas, San Francisco, New Orleans, New York City, and Jamaica.

John continues to work actively on both Prince Poppycock as well as his solo project. He is currently working with Kristian Hoffman (of The Mumps and Klaus Nomi note) on his debut album.

iTUNES: (JOHN QUALE)

http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/worldview/id346468259

Read more: http://www.myspace.com/johnquale#ixzz0xrb6K9bv

        

Introducing...

                                    

Breathtaking isn't he?  I thought the same thing. 

I have been on this quest to find the right "Zaharoff Man" - someone who would really embody the spirit of the brand - worldly but down-to-earth, cosmopolitan without attitude - a real guy.  The type who walks down the street and people do a double-take and say, "who is that?"  That is who the Zaharoff man is all about.

So over the past five years, I have been searching for that right person.  Last week, while just going through the web, I came across this picture, and it literally took my breath away.  Timeless features - if you just look at the face, this picture could have been taken in the Victorian Era, the Wild West, or just yesterday.

I sent him and e-mail from his site asking him to contact me as soon as possible.  His response?  Hi, is that your actual website?? zaharoff.com?  Thank you so much for the kind words, I would love to discuss working with you.  And from there our relationship flourished.  His name is Joe Kelly and he is just as nice and down-to-earth as I expected.

"George, there's only one thing," he paused when we were talking.  "I'm a 42L which might be a problem."  The problem is that most samples are made in a size 40R.  But because I'm a 42L, we make the samples in a 42L.  From that moment, I knew it was kismet .

More to come.

Ladies and Gentleman, I introduce to you, Joe Kelly.

        

      
From the Zaharoff Holiday 2010 Collection, the "King Constantine" jacket (right) .  This jacket was designed for Holiday 2010 - I was thinking about a New Year's Eve party.  And to show you how designers think alike, Louis Vuitton also showed the same fabric in their show (left)  - it was crazy when I saw this because the fabric is very particular.  What are the odds we would both use the same fabric in our collections?       

                           


Would this inspire you?  It's a horse bridal King Constantine used in the Byzantine Era....do you see the similarities between the above and below?  It just feels right -

                                                  



The above inspired me, the moment I saw these 1 inch x 1 inch little swatches....one has to be able to have the vision to see it made up.   The moment I saw this fabric, I knew it was perfect to include in the Zaharoff Fall 2010 Collection (below, in gold, black, copper).

               


From inspiration to catwalk, straight to the store.  This piece is simply gorgeous and I wanted to share this with you.  I was inspired by a trip to Istanbul.  King Constantine had a horse bridal and I that is where I went for this particular item.  Actually this has been an inspiration for me in designs of seasons past.  The "Constantine" design I did in neck wear many years ago I've included as well.

Here's the design, taken from a Zaharoff cummerbund "Constantine" design:

                                                                               

Thank you for letting me share this with you!

        

Why is camelhair so unique?   The hair has specific properties that insulate and protect the camel in the cold high mountain blizzards but also keep them cool in the hot desert heat.  Native desert travelers take advantage of camelhair fabrics for these specific characteristics.  John the Baptist’s robe was made from camelhair. 

Usually thought of as an “older gentlman’s” coat, camel (the colour and the fabric) has been a men’s staple in a man’s waredrobe for perhaps thousands of years.  That being said, for the first time, in a long time, camelhair fabric began hitting the runways…but  in women’s.   And these were not your father’s fabric.  Beautiful, lightweight and flowy – and women bought it and began wearing them on the streets – from Paris to Omaha. 

The men’s designers caught on and began updating the fabric, and using them in other colours like grey, black and navy.  Italian-based Agnona, world-renown for their luxury fabrics, began showing designers “camel-hair” looking outerwear fabrics.  The mens designers caught on, and it started showing up in stores in small amounts last year and sold fairly well.  

Outerwear has gone along with the “tighter-is-better” trend seen in men’s suits, the Mad Men-esque  type clothing.   Coat length went shorter – you couldn’t find a mid-shin length coat in the majority of the designer collections.

In 2009-2010, the pendulum moved a little bit to the other side, the trend is clean, thin lines, but not necessarily tight to the body.  The reason?  Men may be mad for 1950’s type clothing, but the average American man does not have the body his counterpart had in the 1950’s. 

The average sample chest (suit) size in 1950 was a 38R, in 1980 it was 40R, today it is 44R.   The difference between the chest and waist is called the “drop”.  The average suit is between 6 and 7 inches.  This means, if the average chest is 44, the average waist is a 38 waist.  

So when American designers went too thin in the years past, it alienated a large group of men; it just didn’t fit them.  Now, it’s about clean lines that give the appearance of thin, but not cut thin.   The lengths have gotten a little bit accommodating as well, more knee-length and mid-shin coats will be in stores this fall.   

           

Camel colour coats are being shown in unconventional, more fashionable styles.  What usually comes to mind when one thinks about camel, it’s a traditional, cape-like, mid-shin “Polo Coat”.  This season, it’s being shown in more fashion-forward tailored silhouettes.  The most common is a car coat (pea coats or ¾ length), the mainstay of any guy’s waredrobe.  The length comes right at the hip and very versatile.  With a suit or sport jacket, the knee-length “Chesterfield” which has been around for over a century, has been updated into a slimmer model.  Brooks Brothers is stocking up on camel coloured coats, in a more traditional manner, but slimmer and elegant at mid-shin.  The lines are cleaner and leaner than the cape-type coats shown in the past.  Finally, a couple of inches longer than a car coat, the military-inspired coat may make its way into some trendier stores like H&M.

Some questions: 

• What are some of the lengths being shown?

Cleaner lines, more tailored look and less fabric.  Pendulum swinging from uber tight-fitting to the other side just a bit to accommodate the body of the American man.  Not too tight, not too baggy….just right.  In military-style jackets you find applets, belt at the waist, less pockets, even collarless, Nehru-type.  Seeing more and more little hidden pockets for an iPhone or Blackberry.

• Design details?

Men should complete the look with a cashmere scarf in a shade of brown, black or grey and a pair of cashmere-lined brown leather or suede gloves.  A pair of ski gloves with a beautiful cashmere/wool coat does not make for an elegant look.  With a pea or military style a skull cap will add a twist of attitude to the look

• Coordinating accessories?

Men’s trends fall behind women’s and camel coats for women were all the rage last year.  Expect to find something different than your father’s camel coat in stores.  Camel fabric is being used in more fashion-forward silhouettes, particularly in pea coats.   However, the best selling outerwear for men, in tailored clothing, will always be black, dark blue and shades of grey.  Camel is more popular in cities where the winters are not as brutal, since it is a high-maintenance fabric.   San Francisco, Seattle, Paris, London are some cities where you see camel being more popular. 

•  Where can you find?

Expect camel fabric outerwear in stores of every price range from Armani to H&M.

• What's the difference between a $100 coat and a $1,000 coat?

A HUGE difference.  From the quality of the fabric to whether you’ll have it in your closet in a couple of years.  Fabric is everything and it starts with the yarn.  Yarn is sheared and separated according to quality.  Lesser quality yarn is shorter and harder while the best quality is longer and softer, hence more durable, then there’s grades between the two.  After the fabric, where the coat was cut and sewn makes a huge difference.   The less expensive the coat, the lower the overall quality you can expect from the buttons, linings, and even the thread.

        

Jaunted Newsletter is an awesome travel site about...yes, that's right, all things travel.  And this blog entry by JetSetCD I came across was awesome and I wanted to share it with my readers as well.  It's a great list of all the hotels around the world that were designed or collaborated with fashion designers. 

The Ultimate Guide to Fashion Designer Hotels Around the World

The bed inside the Hotel Missoni Edinburgh

Click the map icon at right for a Google Maps journey into all of the Fashion Designer Hotels

Put down your "it bag" and pick up your suitcase because it's not about what you're wearing anymore; it's about where you're staying. Fashion Hotels are the new hot accessory now, with everyone from Giorgio Armani to Diane Von Furstenberg checking in to their own places.

These fashion hotels span the globe, but mostly (and sadly) ignore North America. Italy is the most popular country, but we are not surprised since Milan it's mainly Italian designers that began the movement to get their own hotels. Check out our complete list of all 25 after the jump, and do let us know in the comments which one you'd most like to visit.

The Ultimate Guide to Fashion Designer Hotels, after the jump!

Alberta Ferretti
· Palazzo Viviani at Castello di Montegridolfo, Italy: A 13th century castle/guesthouse redone by Ferretti, complete with fireplaces and frescoes. Call for reservations: 39-541/855-350. $134 per night.*

Armani
· Armani Hotel Dubai: The hotel as well as Armani/Dolci, Armani/Fiori and Armani restaurants are located in the first several floors of the Burj Khalifa, currently the tallest building in the world. $545 per night.*
· Coming soon: Armani Hotels in Milan, Marrakech, Marassi in Egypt, London, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo.

One of the restaurants inside Dubai's Armani Hotel

Bulgari
· Bulgari Milano: A Milan Fashion Week favorite hotel, with a lovely private park. 590€ per night with breakfast for two.*
· Bulgari Bali: 59 villas perched on a cliff, with an elevator down to the beach and some serious exotic luxury. $750 per night.*

Christian Lacroix
· Hotel Bellechasse, Paris: Each of the 34 rooms is completely different, but all a rich Lacroix experience in Paris' Saint Germain district. 179€ per night with free WiFi.*
· Hotel du Petit Moulin, Paris: Lacroix decorated every room of this restored 17th century building in Le Marais district. 190€ per night.*

Diane Von Furstenberg
· Claridge's London: This iconic London property will have 20 DVF-designed rooms from June 2010 on. £490.00 per night.*

Diesel
· Uxua Casa, Brazil A very small property tucked away in Bahia, Brazil and designed/owned by Diesel's creative director Wilbert Das. $480 per night.*

Elie Saab
· Elie Saab Hotel at The Tiger Woods, Dubai A very Arabian boutique property in Dubai, within the Tiger Woods residential club. Still slightly in progress. No price information.

Karl Lagerfeld
· Schlosshotel im Grunewald: Each of the 53 rooms in this suburban Berlin mini-palace are unique, and designed by Karl Lagerfeld himself. Expect classic Kaiser-ly luxury. 239€ per night.*

A guestroom inside Lagerfeld's Schlosshotel im Grunewald

Louis Vuitton
· Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, France: A "haute couture" alpine ski getaway to the LV standards, with photography on the walls by Karl Lagerfeld. 700€ per night.*

Missoni
· Hotel Missoni Edinburgh: A colorful, contemporary property with a restaurant and bar in the center of old town Edinburgh. $242 with free minibar, movies, WiFi & 2 items laundry.*
· Coming Soon: Missoni Hotels in Kuwait, Oman, Brazil and Cape Town in South Africa

Miss Sixty
· Sixty Hotel in Riccione, Italy: A very fun, funky and modern hotel for a happening resort town. Only problem is that their official website doesn't work. $194 per night.*

Moschino
· Maison Moschino Milan: A very whimsical first hotel from Moschino, in a renovated train station in the center of Milan. 270€ per night.*

Oscar de la Renta
· Tortuga Bay at PUNTACANA Resort, Punta Cana, Dominican Republic: Beachside luxury villas decorated by the Dominican designer. $495 per night with breakfast.*

One of the Oscar de la Renta-designed villas at Tortuga Bay

Philip Treacy
· G Hotel in Galway, Ireland: A whimsical boutique hotel designed by milliner Philip Treacy means lots of color and many hat-reminscent design details. 200€ per night.*

Ralph Lauren
· Round Hill Resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica A Jamaican beach resort that evokes the days of Grace Kelly and Cole Porter, but with Ralph Lauren interiors. $335 per night.*

Salvatore Ferragamo
· Hotel Lungarno in Florence, Italy: This flagship property offers classic luxury and little clue that you're styaing in a Ferragamo-owned hotel. There are also Lungarno Apartments and Suites. Free WiFi. 380€ per night.*
· Continentale in Florence, Italy: A contemporary hotel that takes design hints from the 1950s. It was free WiFi and a rooftop lounge. 250€ per night.*
· Gallery Hotel Art in Florence, Italy: Rooms designed in a contemporary style that both compliments and contrasts the Ponte Vecchio right outside. Free WiFi. 250€ per night.*
· Villa Le Rose: The ultimate. This renaissance mansion outside of Florence has a ballroom and only 5 suites. Book by phone: +39 055 2726 4000. No price information.
· Portrait Suites in Rome, Italy: Only 14 suites are available here, in the townhouse above the Ferragamo store on the Via Condotti. Free WiFi and a rooftop terrace. 850€ per night.*

Silvia Tcherassi
· Tcherassi Hotel in Cartagena de Indias, Colombia: This 7-suite colonial mansion on the Colombian coast sits in a UNESCO World Heritage Area. To reserve call 1.888.575.2799. $295 per night.*

Todd Oldham
· The Hotel at South Beach in Miami, Florida: This classic Art Deco hotel's 53 rooms were designed by Oldham back in 1998. Perhaps it's time for a revamp? $195 per night.*

Versace
· Palazzo Versace Australia: $400 per night.*
· Coming soon: Palazzo Versace Dubai

*denotes the lowest price listed on the hotel rates for a regular room, or if none was available, the single nightly rate for a Saturday in June. [Photos: Missoni Edinburgh photo at top by Jaunted; Hotel photos via the hotel websites]

        

So today I can across this blog from gq.com and it got me worked up.  It was titled "The Low-Cost, High-Style Labels That Got Us Through the Recession" - it then went on and said, "More Flash for Cash".

The article, which you can read in its entirety here , referred to the items people bought before the recession at specialty retailers and how they can find similar less expensive items at stores such as H and M, Topman, Zara and Uniqlo. 
          
                            
From Japanese company Uniqlo, looks great right?  Wool-cashmere topcoat, $150. shirt, $40. wool pants, $50.  What kind of quality are you going to get with a wool pair of pants at $50?!?  or a cashmere topcoat at $150...that would mean the cost of cashmere/wool would have to be about $5.00 a metre (vs $95 Loro Piana) or there is .0001% Cashemere.  Cashmere is a delicate fabric - what will this coat look like in a year?!            


I have walked into said stores and seen the price tags - and purchased some items myself.  It was the first and very last time I did so - to me quality is more important to me than quantity.  I would rather buy one nice shirt that will last me a few years than buy a bunch of cheap shirts that will look aged after a few months of wearing.

"...turn-over as much product as possible in the shortest period of time."

People have this "Needless Mark-up" thinking when it comes to the specialty stores (in this case Nieman Marcus), but having been exposed to  factories from Florence to Sri Lanka, England to Bangladesh, I understand what things actually cost.  If you find a button-down shirt at H and M for $15.00, made in Bangladesh or Vietnam, anyone can back track it to see what it's actual cost would be. 

Let's take that shirt.  First of all, the shirt has to be designed.  Second, the fabric has to be made.  From there, it is shipped to the factory to be cut and sewn.  There are buttons, labels, and other things you wouldn't think of like thread, machines, labour, etc.  From there, it has to be shipped and sent to the distribution centers, which sends it to the stores.   Then there's the retail markup - these stores have to pay for their rents, labour, executives, travel, etc.  Let's not forget marketing too.  A great deal of cost goes into these items, which is why it's all about turn-over as much product as possible in the shortest period of time.

I know a good shirt fabric.  One that will last a long time, have some weight to it, alone should cost about $30.  And this is on the low end - I'm not talking about one made in England, which would average much higher.  This is why a shirt made in Italy or England (or even here) hovers around $200.00 - there is a reason to this.  It isn't because everyone is getting rich over it.  There's a cost to the quality you are getting.

Let's take this $15.00 shirt:

Retail Markup (low-end):  - $7.00
Warehousing, shipping, distribution, duties:  - $3.00

One is looking at $10.00 in just retail markup and just getting the shirt at the store.  If these stores do it properly, they are both a wholesaler and a retailer.  In other words, they have a wholesale division (which makes the product) and a retail division (which sells the product).  Two divisions which both have to be profitable.  This $15.00 shirt has now become a $5.00 wholesale shirt.

At $5.00, everything else has to be covered, the costs of running the wholesale operations, executive salaries, traveling, and designing.  There's the cost of the fabric and actual labour in making the garment.  This is where you get into 1/2 and 1/4 of pennies.  In other words, a single label will cost .050 cents...1/2 a penny! 

Fabric: $2.00
Labour: $1.25

There's $1.75 left. 

Imagine, when you are looking at clothing at this price level - the quality grade will be at the bottom of the ladder.  From the type of thread in the sewing machines to buttons and fabric. 

In the end, you get what you pay for.

        

A Fan Blowing in the Wind

                 

Throughout the next six months, I will try and share with you some of the inspiration that went into the Fall 2010 Collection.  The inspiration came from a number of trips taken to the island of Zanzibar.  There's something about the island I found fascinating, such incredible charm.  African and Middle Eastern Influence but not like Morocco - it's something about that island and its' people. 

                                                         

Zanzibar is famous for their wood-carved doors and it was there I found some great designs for the Fall 2010 (and Spring 2011).  This particular door belonged to the British Counsulate - imagine a time long ago, Zanzibar was a trading port, and part of the British Empire.  Famous explorers like Speke, Livingstone , and Burton have come and gone, the last both in life and death.

This particular door is different than the others on the island, in both proportions and carving styles.  It gives the impression of movement, which I loved.  On top of that, looking at the designs individually you wouldn't think they would all match, but the artist that created this door, the placing of radiated ellipses and circles together with it's proportion offers a sense of stability.  Just fabulous!

Who would have thought, that on the bottom of this door, one would find inspiration?  This is why one should always be open to even the smallest of things...

Hence the birth of  "A Fan Blowing in the Wind" as I explain it -

Inspired by the wood carved door of the then British Consulate (now a
trading company), this design gives the impression of movement.
Through this door explorers like Burton, Speke, and Livingstone have
come and gone. Called “Fan Blowing in the Wind” it reminded me of a
child’s windmill toy.

Beautiful!  Here it is as a cufflink, notice the two tone texture and dimension - classic Zaharoff.

                             

And finally as part of the Fall 2010 Collection, (above) Zaharoff neckwear.

                    

        

                                               
The "11" you see circled is our (Zaharoff's) reference, in this case, this pattern is the 11th design in the collection (of about 30).  On the bottom, the "6" means that there are six different colour swatches.  This makes it possible to assign reference numbers to every design.  The "D79780" is Stephen Walters & Son's reference number of the design and on the far right, the little sticker that says "SWS" the pattern is numbered as well as the actual colour, that number was cut out of the picture.


Today I decided I would share with you some pictures of what I'm working on today.  The Spring/Summer 2011 showing is coming up in New York in two weeks and I've been putting the finishing touches on all the collections.

In the case of the neckwear, all the swatches have arrived and minor colour changes that were made two months ago, I'm able to finally see.  It's a very exciting process - considering Fall/Winter 2010 is shipping next month, the Spring/Summer 2011 shows are this month AND fabric development begins on Fall/Winter 2011 (yes, you read correctly, FALL/WINTER 2010!). 

This particular pattern is part of the floral group (top) and below is my interpretation of the polka dot tie.  Zaharoff is all about texture, I want the world to be stimulated in different ways: colours, dimensions, sizes, patterns - all in harmony with the world around.  I'll give you an example as with the polka dot design below.  I took a very simple design, polka dots, that's been around for a zillion years (well not that long, but you get it) and instead of the common plain background, I put line work so it would give the background colour some texture.  From close up, you can see the line work, but you're seeing a close up - but from far away, the silk is shiny and beautiful.

The silks are made by Stephen Walters & Sons in England - who has been making silks for neckwear for NINE generations.  They make beautiful silks.

                                     

        

                                                       
             


It has been SEVEN years since I last wore my fragrance.  After 9/11, it was tough on me to get myself to wear such a beautiful fragrance.  I used to douse myself in my scent.  This past Monday, I received a metal jug from the fragrance house (Givaudan) with a sticker on it, simply saying "Zaharoff".  I didn' t know how to feel - I was excited, nervous.

The "thermos(?)" was half-full and was meant for me to approve the batch before....ready?  FILLING.  Yes, within the next four weeks, they are finally filling my men's signature fragrance.  It is the same exact fragrance, just new packaging.

I had two atomizers for myself and I had to fill them up.  Of course, in my excitement, I managed to spill some on me.  It was as if I had a taste of the elixir.  Since then I haven't been able to stop spraying myself.  It was the strangest feeling - it's as if things are coming full circle.  As if I have to finish something I started. 

DESIGN PROCESS


                                                   

In designing the packaging, I wanted to keep with the integrity of the brand.  This time, I went with a Byzantine theme.  The bottle, which I call "Papa" reminds me of an old Byzantine bottle with a black cap - the type an Orthodox monk would wear hence, "Papa".  Awesome, isn't it?  I have the measurements because I wanted the box manufacturer to get an idea of dimensions.

I would like to introduce you to my process and what the finished product is going to look like.  Initially I wanted to have an old coin, like the drawing above (and I've actually taken a picture of the finished product, below, from my i-phone). 

Below is the "Zaharoff" coin, made in England.  Rather than use it on a fragrance bottle, I decided to actually use the mold for signature buttons on blazers. 

                                    

This is how is was originally going to look like (left), but it looked too busy, and I wanted something simple.  After all, it is the fragrance that deserves all the attention.  I will post the picture of the updated bottle when it gets shot.

                       

        

                                                                   

I would like to introduce to everyone my dear friend, Wendy Schauer:

"The 7 Steps To Amazing Health!" by, Dr. Wendy M. Schauer, D.C., R.K.C. has received the highest of praise from models and actresses to world renowned body guards, former Navy SEALs and top fitness professionals.  Dr. Wendy wrote this book as a resource that anyone can use to start improving their health and their life today...regardless of their current level of fitness.

                                                                

 

Dr. Wendy is the founder of Community Chiropractor, P.S., and Abundant Fitness Center, Inc.  She is the co-founder of Abundant Health Center, LLC.  Dr Schauer has been a chiropractor for almost two decades.  In 2009 she was nominated for the Woman Of The Year Award through The Best of Western Washington Awards.  In 2005 she was awarded the The YWCA Women of Achievement Award as Washington's Woman of Influence.

For more information:

http://kettlebellolympia.com/sample-chapter-the-7-steps-to-amazing-health-2/

and to buy her book:

http://www.amazon.com/7-Steps-Amazing-Health/dp/061533203X/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_1

        

                                                            Georgie Bear hieroglyph , 1900 BC, found in cave outside Cairo

                

While doing a project at The State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, I was walking through the endless rooms thinking about what a dream it was to be there.  A passing thought came to me: what would happen if I was forgotten about and ended up getting locked in the museum?  Georgie Bear was born at that moment.  That night in my hotel room, I dreampt of him, and how he would find himself in certain situations.  This was in 2002.

                                                 
                                                              Georgie Bear photoshoot - wearing a Zaharoff suit!

Initially, Georgie Bear was intended to be some sort of package for Breast Cancer Awareness Month with my signature fragrance back in 2002 with Neiman Marcus.  Working with Build-A-Bear Workshop in St. Louis, they took all my crazy sketches and designs, "he has to be sleek, black, furry...ears back.  A heart of gold..."  It was working with Build-A-Bear Workshop and them allowing me to design and create him was incredible, I am forever grateful to them.  He is such a beautiful bear.

                                              
                                                                                Cave Dwelling, Egypt 1900 BC

September 11th, 2001, happened and for obvious reasons this did nothappen.  But Georgie Bear kept dancing in my head.  And as he did his dance, he told me his story and how he became to be.  Hence, the first book aptly named, "The Story of Georgie Bear ."  It is the first book in a series.

The Story of Georgie Bear can be found in Amazon:  http://www.amazon.com/Story-Georgie-Bear-George-Zaharoff/dp/0615230296/

        

                                                         

My beautiful friend Vanessa Woods has written a book called, Bonobo Handshake (Gotham 2010), a memoir of her research with bonobos in Congo.  I am so proud of her!    Go here on AMAZON to buy her book.

                                                                                                                                                                               

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vanessa is an award winning journalist and author. She has written three children’s books; It’s True! There Are Bugs In Your Bed (2005), It’s True! Space Turns You Into Spaghetti (2006), and It’s True! Pirates Ate Rats (2007). It’s True! Space Turns You Into Spaghetti won the Acclaimed Book award from the Royal Society, UK.

Vanessa is also the author of the travel memoir It’s Every Monkey For Themselves (2007) about her experiences chasing wild capuchin monkeys through the Costa Rican jungle. Her books have been sold in the US, Australia, Korea, Israel and the UK.

Vanessa is an internationally published journalist and has written for various publications including the Discovery Channel, BBC Wildlife, New Scientist, and Travel Africa. In 2003, Vanessa won the Australasian Science award for journalism.

Vanessa is currently a Research Scientist at Duke University and studies the cognitive development chimpanzees and bonobos at sanctuaries in the Republic of Congo and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Vanessa is on the Board of Directors for Friends of Bonobos, the US charity that supports Lola ya Bonobo. Part of her author profits will go to Friends of Bonobos to help bonobos in Congo.

Contact

Go to Vanessa Woods’ website: www.vanessawoods.net
Email Vanessa: bonobohandshake@gmail.com
Friend Vanessa on Facebook: www.facebook.com/bonobohandshake
Contact Vanessa’s publicist: Beth.Parker@us.penguingroup.com
Have Vanessa speak at your event: www.thelavinagency.com

For more information on bonobos…

Go to: www.friendsofbonobos.org
Visit: www.3chimpsduke.com
Email: info@friendsofbonobos.org

        

Zaharoff was fortunate enough for the second time to be a part of Dancing with the Stars Season 9 and Season 10.  Each cast member received a pair of men's cufflinks from the Zaharoff Fall 2010 Collection.   I will be posting various pictures over the next couple of days.  This one is of Adam Lambert before his performance.

                                                  

        

I have been chomping at the bit waiting for the right time to discuss the Zaharoff Fall 2010 Collection.  Even though this is being written in May, I figure it's right around the corner so I might as well make some sort of entry.

                                            
                                                  
Yours truly just arriving into the island of Zanzibar.  I look a little rugged, having just come from visting Ethiopia, Sudan and mainland Tanzania.

Designers plan things out about a year ahead of time, so when clothing actually get into the stores, they are already working on next year's collection.  Fall 2010 was designed about ten months ago - I've already completed Spring 2011 and now getting ready to work on Fall 2011.  I have to admit, it is strange working in this unknown future, so when it actually catches up, I have already moved on to other things.

Fall 2010 was completely inspired by numerous visits to the main island of Zanzibar.  Even the name evokes thoughts of some exotic faraway place.  I would bet that nine out of ten wouldn't even know where it is located. 

Here it is:

                                                          

Zanzibar is a beautiful magnificent little island off the coast of Tanzania.  It is a hop and a skip away (16 miles or so)  from Dar es Salaam (known as "Dar" by the locals).  Literally the plane takes off, levels and lands - all in five minutes.  There are also multiple ferries between the capital and the island daily.  What is so unique about Zanzibar is that it is actually a number of islands - it is the archipelago of a handful of islands.  Unguja is the bigger island, which is typically referred to as "Zanzibar" (even the picture of me at the airport says "Zanzibar") and then there are smaller islands, including Pemba.

Zanzibar was once a separate state with a long trading history within the Arab world united with Tanganyika to form Tanzania in 1964 and still enjoys a high degree of autonomy within the union. The capital of Zanzibar, located on the island of Unguja, is Zanzibar City, and its historic center, known as Stone Town, is a World Heritage Site. 

Zanzibar's main industries are spices, raffia, and tourism. In particular, the islands produce cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper. For this reason, the islands, together with Tanzania's Mafia Island, are sometimes called the Spice Islands (a term also associated with the Maluku Islands in Indonesia). Zanzibar's ecology is of note for being the home of the endemic Zanzibar Red Colobus and the (possibly extinct) Zanzibar Leopard.

It is in Stone Town, the historic center, where inspiration flourished for me.  It was incredible and immediate and lead to the beginnings of working on the Fall 2010 Collection.  WIth it's little alleyways mixed together with Arabian influences and African peoples, it is a artists dream come true - at least for me!

                                                                

As mentioned, Zanzibar was a major trading port at one time, under British rule, and as such, was home to various government offices (like the British Consulate, Inn's, customs houses), and of course residences of wealthy sultans and merchants.  How to show your wealth to others?  Doors - yes, you read the words correctly, wooden doors.  They all had names as well - it was a symbol of their culture and heritage as well.  There is no other place in the world that has these special doors.  The wealthier you were, the more ornate the doors to your residence, shop, bank, or even harem (called "The Door of Fire").  And let's not forget security, they needed these to be big and heavy.

                                                         

And to this day, walking though the alleyways, you can see artisans wood carving just like they did hundreds of years ago.  It was here I asked one very talented wood carver to carve the Zaharoff Made-to-Measure boxes you see in a Nordstrom store today.

      
                 

This was the old Zaharoff MTM box, which I couldn't stand looking at in the stores - I was desperate to find a solution.  While walking through the streets of Stone Town, I found a talented wood carver - he didn't want to be bothered with me initially, but who could say no to me?  He told me to get him a paper copy of the lion.  I had to desperately search through the streets for a printer to hook my laptop.  It was just AWESOME!

       

The above is my scribble scratch of what I gave the artisan that created the Zaharoff Made-to-Measure box.  And the bottom is the end result:

                

This was just the tip of the iceberg of what was next to come and as we get closer to Fall 2010, I will share with you my inspirations from this tiny little island.  What I am hoping for is to show you that inspiration comes in every form.

        

                                                                               


Churchgoers got a lot more than they bargained for when the priest unknowingly splashed bleach onto the parishioners.

St. Nicholas church in the Chicago suburb of Oak Lawn was a couple of hours into their 2010 Good Friday evening service when Reverend Father John E. Artemas took a small brass figurine into his hands.  This figurine, filled with holy rose water, typically takes the shape of an eagle, a symbol of orthodoxy, with a spout at its' mouth.  The priest walks around the church and waves the figurine spraying the congregation with this holy rose water.  It fills the church with a light, fragrant smell.

"It was around 10pm," one of the parishioners was telling me the story, "and I noticed there were stains on my dress.  My first thought was how stupid I could have been to buy it without noticing it."  But things took a turn for the worse when a woman complained about her eye stinging.  "There was a rush to the alter by a group of men to tell the priest," she added. 

But it was too late, the priest had already walked around the church spraying bleach onto the congregation.  Suits, dresses, blouses, even the church's carpeting, which had just been freshly installed - white spots appeared as the bleach dried, sparing no one.

The priest got on the microphone and announced the blunder stating, "apparently God wanted us to be blessed with something other than holy water," and offered to pay for damages done to a packed church.  No one has come forth with claims and most likely none will.  Apparently, earlier in the day, a church custodian wanted to clean the figurine and filled it with bleach, only to forget about it later.

Many wonder if this was an omen, the church has been plagued with scandal and infighting.

        

Here's another AllExperts question, you can view the original here:


      AND   

QUESTION

Sorry about this question...hope it's not too stupid....I'm 55 yearsold...in pretty good shape...live in the Las vegas area and it'sgetting to jeans and t-shirt weather....the question is....do you wearyour t-shirt inside or outside your jeans...and do you always wear abelt....Thanks for the advice..

ANSWER

I think it is AWESOME that you took the time out of your day to ask this question.  It's guys like you that inspire me not only to be in this business, but also to be an AllExpert.  I truly believe that taking care of oneself has nothing to do with "impressing" others (I've heard, "I have nothing to prove to anyone").  It is how you present yourself that reflects how you care about yourself.  I don't care if you are in a $4,000 suit or a $10 tank top with a pair of shorts.  

That being said, jeans and a t-shirt is a great casual look and quintessential Americana.  My school of thinking moves more towards the classic gentleman with an updated touch, and if one were to go through some blog entries and other AllExpert entries, there's one thing I can't budge on - a belt.  A man - a gentleman - always wears a belt with his trousers.  There was a time where a man would never leave the house without a button-down shirt and trousers.  Now, we wear our shirts and t-shirts out.  If I'm wearing a sweater and it's covering the top part of the trouser, I will forgo the belt if I don't need one, which is a no-no, but I still do it.

Let's talk about that t-shirt.  T-shirts are awesome, in my various travels, I grab a t-shirt and love to wear them when doing everyday things like grocery shopping, etc.

   What EVERY man should own (and use) - a full-length mirror

Remember three things when you look in a mirror: Proportion, Fit, and Silhouette.  Every man should invest in a full-length mirror.  Before you walk out the door, look at yourself and think of those three things.  Unless it is a white undershirt, a t-shirt shouldn't be too tight, but not too baggy either.  It should fit just right.  If you tuck in your t-shirt and it makes your silhouette look a little "off" (in other words, shows off love handles or your gut), I would leave it untucked. 

    Gym shoes belong in the...gym!

Some other things I wish to add, if I may, gym shoes belong in the....gym!   Gym shoes fall into the realm of like white Nike running shoes, sneakers are different.

Sneakers, loafers, and boots are perfect with a pair of jeans and now that the weather is warmer, even sandals.  If you are wearing black shoes/sandals, a black belt is necessary, if your shoes/sandals are another colour, your belt should be a shade darker (with brown shoes I would do a shade darker).  Black shoes/belt with a light pair of jeans doesn't look as nice as it would with a darker pair of jeans.  Stay away from cloth belts.

If a man is going to wear sandals and show off his feet, they must look presentable.  Women love men who have nice feet, if you don't believe me, ask any woman.

So, with all my ranting, what's the answer about whether to wear a t-shirt tucked or untucked?  Look in the mirror and be very critical.  You will get your answer.

Have a great summer!

        

This was another great question from allexperts.com:

QUESTION

I just bought one of your suits

I recently bought one of your Zaharoff Basileia men suits for Nordstrom and I am wondering if this is a proper suit to wear to a job interview I have in a couple days and also to a wedding I will be attending in may. I had bought this at a Nordstrom outlet store and got a great deal and out of curiosity I want to know what the original price would have been. I've searched this suit all over the internet and cannot find any information on it. Would you please help me with these two questions?

ANSWER

I'm happy to hear you purchased one of my suits from Nordstrom Rack.  The Rack gets my suits a couple of seasons after the mainline stores all over the country.  You didn't mention the colour of the fabric and the pattern, which makes it virtually impossible because Nordstrom purchases hundreds of fabrics a year.  Also, my suits are very special and only available at select Nordstrom stores in the country and some smaller specialty stores.

That being said, if you look into the inside pocket, you will see a "ZAHA3112", which is my most popular model - "ZAHA" is the body (or silhouette), the first digit is the number of buttons (in this case 3 button although if it's number 2, then a two button).  The second digit, in this case a 1, is the lapel type, or a notch (a 2 is peak).  The third digit is the pocket type, 1 being just regular pockets (then there are ticket, slant, patch, etc.).  Finally the last digit is the number of vents, 2 being the side vents (1 is center, 0 is no vent).

Under the ZAHA3112, there is another name depending on the trouser, single, double, flat front (like BALDWIN).  There is a date and then a five digit number, that is the fabric number.  That number tells the factory the country of origin, mill, colour, pattern, composition, the mill's fabric reference, the cost, duty, and the microns...amazing, isn't it?

Then you will see in the center of the ticket is a letter followed by a bunch of numbers, like M12345 - this is the information the factory can track the entire manufacturing process, from who signed for the fabric when it arrived from Italy all the way to who sewed the buttons, etc. (that detailed!)  

Finally, there is a date and the factory that made the suit itself.  Your suit is a very well-made, first-class suit.  Bemberg silk lining, floating chest piece using genuine horse hair to wick away sweat - countless specifications.  If you look at the edge of your lapel, you will notice the hand-stitching.  Speaking of lapel, under your lapel button, there is a stem holder in case you want to put a flower on your lapel. You don't need a pin, there's a holder instead.  The inside pockets were designed for a traveler, able to fit a ticket and passport.  

Now down to your question - how much do my suits cost?  Nordstrom retails my suits from $895 through $4,000, depending on the actual fabric.  

Not knowing the exact fabric, I am 100% certain you would look professional and smart in my suit for a job interview - all of my fabrics are hand-chosen by me personally.  As for a wedding, I assume your Zaharoff suit is dark and if the affair is an after five pm affair, then you are set.  If it is an afternoon wedding, a light suit is more appropriate.  On a side note, a solid shirt for the evening, a striped shirt for an after 5 pm event.

I hope this answers your questions (and then some).

Have fun, enjoy the suit, know you have a first-class product in your closet.

George

        

This question came to me from www.allexperts.com and I wish to share this with the rest of you: 

Question:

I understand that "beauty" and what "looks good" canpossibly remain in the realm philosophical, artistic and scientificexploration forever; but what (if any) are the basic ground rules forbeauty in men's fashion?  I'm just beginning to be able to grow into myown sense of fashion, but I'm looking to fine tune it.  Are the rulesever changing with trends or are there things that always ring true? Thank you for your time and expert opinion.

This was my answer:

What a GREAT question.  It's good toknow there are people out there, especially men, that can ask questionsabout the world around them.  This is how we, as a society, grow andlearn.  Many people have this, "I don't care what anyone thinks aboutme," and walk around oblivious.  "Fashion" sounds feminine and that isnot true.

How you look effects EVERYTHING (and I am nottalking about just what you are wearing) - it effects how you speak toothers, how others treat you, and a host of other things.  How youpresent yourself to the world, in my opinion, shows how much yourespect yourself and others.

What may have been fashionable once("Miami Vice" suits) would not look nice today - hence that wonderfulword "trends".  I will spare you the specifics, but colours aredictated five years out.  Dupont controls most of the yarns whichsupplies the factories, which in turn, creates the fabric.  Thedesigners twice a year go to Paris and Milan to purchase the fabricsthey are going to use for their collections (even if designers createtheir own fabrics, they have to use the yarn presented to them).

Thenthe media works with the designers AND retailers to keep things moving- it's a huge wheel. It's wild isn't it?  So yes, trends are ALWAYSchanging; they are cycles.

Okay, that is one side of yourquestion.  "Beauty is relative" holds true, but you do want to keepabreast of what is fashionable so you can stay current with yourtastes.  THAT being said, I don't feel you should look like someoneelse dressed you.  I feel you should be your own fashion designer atyour own level, put together items that make a statement of who you are.

Thesecond part of your question, "are there things that always ring true"? The answer is, yes, there are things that always ring true.  

Ihave in my library tons of books on the history of fashion.  From asfar back as the Egyptians and Greeks, throughout history three keywords have always held true: Silhouette, Proportion, and Fit.

Silhouette

Ifyou were to sit in front of a mirror with a shirt and trousers andoutline your body, that would be the silhouette.  If you were wearing ashoulder pads, you would see that something doesn't look right.  

Proportion

Howdoes the shirt look with the jacket?  If you have a baggy shirt with atight jacket, that obviously wouldn't look right.  I would placefabrics, colours, and patterns here as well.  If you are wearing aplaid jacket with a striped trouser, that wouldn't look so good.

Fit

Howdoes the shirt fit your body?  Are your pants too short?  The fit isimportant because if you are short and a little "rotund" a tight shirtwill make you look bigger (and shorter).  If you are tall and a skinnybuild, the same look will make you look lanky.

Now how do youtake all this information out into the world to make sure you arecurrent?  For example, men's suits have undergone a huge transformationfrom a 1920s look to a tighter, "Mad Men" 1950s look.  Suits I had justtwo years ago do not look right today.  Pleats are out, flat front isin.

This is where you have to go out there and educateyourself, grab a GQ Magazine or see what some of the actors are wearingto their premieres.  It does NOT cost a lot of money, you only need afew key items, like a sweater, a couple of pairs of trousers, a fewshirts, etc.

Your "fine tuning", Thomas, is going to be likedriving a car around town and constantly trying to hear your station. Fashion is constantly changing and you will always be updating - thething is the more you are conscious of it, the better you will get.  Itwill eventually become second nature to you.

I want to make sure I answered your question properly.  So if you have anything that needs clarifying, please let me know.

If you want to see some of the other questions on allexperts: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Men-s-Clothing-2310/